Pinot, Bretzels, and Cathedrals

This weekend marks our two year anniversary of living in Strasbourg.  Yes, somehow we managed to tie it close enough to Bastille Day, and the hottest time of the year.  I can write that with conviction, because I have two very definitive memories of that weekend.

We arrived on a Friday.  I was wearing jeans, a long sleeve shirt, a jacket and my calf-length Tsonga boots, because we had left a wintery Johannesburg.  I figured that I was dressed pretty lightly for a Black Forest summer, but I was naïve in my assumption, because by the time our air-conditioned taxi stopped outside our home I was decidedly uncomfortable.  We wilted.  We could do absolutely nothing but drink gallons of tap water- the 4 beers that our landlady had bought didn’t touch sides, and we were slightly loathe to spend or ZA Rands at that point.  Even our appetites wilted.  (I wish I could get that moment back).

This sticky humidity… nearly two years on, and it has become apparent that this is the norm.  It is 38 degrees outside at the moment.  It’s cooler indoors, but only just.  But, I complained bitterly about cold icy winters that I dare not complain about the heat.  I know that there is an end to it.  Summer really only goes on for 6 weeks.

My second memory of our first weekend was meeting our first friends, having crepes with them at their home, and then being taken to watch the Bastille Day fireworks. Beth fell asleep on their couch before the sun had set.  I was amazed later when Ms M. put their son on her bicycle and cycled out to the Esplanade while we were driven closer in a car. For a long time after that, I would try to recognise the route we took- la Citadelle where we parked-seemed mystic and inspiring, but nothing seemed familiar.  I guess that is  to be expected:  first impressions are often different to what reality is, particularly under the shadows of street lights.  (* I have found that route more recently, while out jogging after a school drop off.  Sections of la Citadelle actually are mystic and inspiring ;-).)

Ironically, we helped that family move away from Strasbourg last weekend, to Luxembourg.  It’s a bitter-sweet time for me:  I am sad to see them leave, but it’s part of our life here in Strasbourg.  It’s one of the things we’ve learnt living here.

There is actually quite a lot we’ve learnt in the last 2 years.

1. People come, people go.  Strasbourg is quite central in Europe, and there is a big ex-pat community, who come and go in cycles.  It’s also the seat of the European Council and Parliament, and there is an intimate relaxed diplomatic community, who also come and go in cycles.  Who we have dinner with this weekend, might not be here next anniversary.  We make friends.  Our children make friends.  We have learnt that we need to be able to say goodbye.  Saying goodbye can be a good thing, because it means we have someone who we will miss, which is better than not having anyone at all.

2. There is a lot more English spoken than we thought.  Most Strasbourgers’ have been very accommodating in helping us while we are not fluent in French.  Even after 2 years, and we can speak more than ten sentences, locals will hear our abysmal French accents and switch into their abysmal English accents in order to help.  Kudos to the French, who the world think are arrogant and proud.

3. Putting people into boxes is not cool.  The French may be arrogant and proud, but their patriotism runs deeper than American patriotism. I have learnt to love how the French abhor imports.  (It just means I have to have Rooibos and Ceylon tea posted to me).  And Americans are not all as naïve as I thought. It’s possible to find an Englishman who embraces French culture.  But everything you know and think about Germans is probably true.  They’re still an amazing group of people, and make good beer.

4.  French Wine is not all that.  Yes, it is good, and I am too overly fond of Champagne and Cremant, but I have to say, there are barrels of South African wine that can compete with centuries old French wine.  (Or do I simply take this stance because I can’t sip on Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Pouilly Fuissé every night?)  French cheese though, is all that.

5. Belgian Beer.  Winner.  It’s like having an artisan or craft beer in every bottle.

6. Not only Anton can ride a bicycle.  I can.  Alex AND Beth can.  And we can cycle on roads made especially for us.  We can ring our bells at pedestrians who are in our cycle paths.  And apparently I can have my drivers licence taken away from me if I am caught cycling over the alcohol limit.

7. Canals form an integral part of the city’s infrastructure. Tourist boats, rowing, barges and houseboats, booze boats, keys and locks, swans, joggers, cyclists, bridges.  Love it.

8.  Switzerland is very expensive. Wow.  No other words.  Beautiful, majestic, expensive.

9. People die. Blunt, I know.  It’s like people who come and go, only much, much worse. In this case, missing them is not a positive thing.  The thing is, it happens:  nobody is exempt, your other life doesn’t just slow down because you’re not living it.  When people die, you wish you could stop the train from moving, turn it back. But you can’t.  Point.

10.  The space between us becomes wider.  You and I have years of friendship and history behind us, and I know that when I come home next, we will pick up where we left off, but until I can touch your hand, hold you in my arms, smell your scent and see your smile, what happens in between becomes more and more unfamiliar.  What are you thinking?  What is holding you back, who is lifting you up?  Knowing that I don’t know the intricacies of your day to day makes me sad.  The space between us will just become wider, won’t it?  Until, that is, I can see you in front of me again.

We are going to celebrate on Sunday.  I’m cooking, and we’ll eat here in our apartment, surrounded by a few of our lovely friends.  I would happily invite everyone, but apartment life is not cut out for that, and already I worry about 5 children in the confines, but will deal with that then.

S & K, if you were here, you would have the first invitation.  I’m sorry that I never actually said goodbye properly, but I know that you are not strangers to Strasbourg, and that you’ll be back.  Thank you for your friendship over the last 2 years.  We have both enjoyed and appreciated every moment.  All the best for your new journey.

Friends, think of us this weekend. We do still miss you all, even surrounded by many lovely new friends.

Until next time,

All our love.

Xxx