Pinot, Bretzels, and Cathedrals

Wowsers, that week away was awesome, and I feel inclined right up to express my revelations at travelling low-cost in Europe, and in the event you have seen my many many photos I posted on Facebook and Instagram, I will include some of my favourite ones right here!

I booked the flights all the way back in January when I had Dads’ plans confirmed, and the cheapest, most effective way of getting to Dublin was on Ryanair from Basel airport.  Ryanair is budget airlines at its very best/worst.  Basically, it’s like when we used to take cross-country buses as poor students, there is very little that’s actually luxurious about it.  It also means that every Tom, Dick, Harry, Sally, Peter, Paul, Whoever else you can think of is also travelling, so it’s pretty rammed.  Also, the second rate Europe airports that are like bus terminals at peak hour are incredibly busy, and there is absolutely no time whatsover for overt politeness and streamlined voyages.

Picture about 10 Boeing 737’s all departing within one hour from 1 wing of an airport terminal, when the airlines have cut costs so much that you basically have to fend for yourself (self-check-in).  Picture those 2000 odd people all having to be frisked at the security gate, when almost 99% of those travellers all have suitcases with them because checked luggage is too much of an ass to wait for, and also more expensive when you book your ticket.  (30eu per suitcase on way!)  HECTIC!  Rattiness, lack of grace and impatience from travellers were in massive abundance.  The airport staff were incredibly patient! And when we arrived in Dublin, we were part of another 1500 odd people all arriving simultaneously, about a third of which were Americans who has to have travel papers scrutinised along with us. Naturally, we mistimed our arrival at the ferry harbour to collect Dad, and leaving Dublin for the west coast was another lesson in being patient.

However, we headed due west on the highway and by the time we arrived in The Burren in County Clare, it was around 5pm.  It was a long day, given we had woken up at 5am. But what a gem awaited us per kind favour of AirBnB and a cheap holiday cottage.  I had hoped to stay close to Galway, but couldn’t find anything in our price range there (damn, when are my kids going to be old enough to pay for their own holiday accommodation???) and in the end, we were an hour and a half drive away from Galway.  Which mattered nothing.  Our cottage kind of looked over the Atlantic.

The only pub in Fanore, closed for meals and during the week due to off season.

The view from the pub.

Cows, mud, rocks.

But it backed into a geological mineral reserve with some pretty rugged inspiring views.  Plus a whole bunch of cows, so Dad felt at home, and my Petite Monstre was in 7th heaven. (This child LOVES cows)  For all of us, it was blissfully rural.  The only trip I had planned to do was to go and see the Cliffs of Moher, which are a spectacular sight on the rural west coast of Ireland where staggering high cliffs fall into the crashing ocean below. 

The Cliffs of Moher.

There is history dating back to the Napoleonic war and geography lesson telling us that the cliffs were created almost at the time of Pangea when those masses of the earth could be located near the equator- fossils and plants have been found that are not dissimliar to tropical fish and plants.  You can also walk along the edge of the cliffs and take in the sounds from the ocean below and the seagulls above, but the weather was against us underdressed frenchies and also the tour buses had started arriving in their droves so we skipped out and did a little coastal drive to find groceries.  The area is a national park and Global Geopark site, the terroir dates back centuries and is full up with interesting geological treasures.  We took the kids to a spot along the way that advertised a cave.  Given small spaces are not high on my list of priorities, I figured that if I had ‘done’ one set of caves in my life, that surely a cave in Ireland wouldn’t be any more impressive, but the kids would find it exciting, so off we went. We arrived when the office opened so we got first dibs on the guided tour, all on our very own.  Jim, who took us down was absolutely fabulous, explaining all matter of interesting things to the girls, and how the caves were discovered in the 1950’s.  We trekked down a set of steps dug 70 meters into the earth, Jim explained how all the construction had been done without mechanical equipment due to the stalactite.  Silly me thought that he had meant to say stalactites, plural, because that’s what you get in caves right? No, not in this cave down in Doolin.  Not many stalactites.  Just one.  Just the one frikking spectacular 8 meter long one. 

What a sight, to see this wonder of nature suspended from the roof of a cave, a wonder of nature too old to even comprehend.  Truly, I was blown away with amazement.  Obviously, the girls were too, and asked such fabulous questions, they really did us proud as parents!

They weren’t as interested in the burial tombs that we headed to after.  The Poulnabrone Dolmen located on limestone sheets on the plateau is described as a burial tomb.  I fell in love with the starkness of the rocks in this area, the plants and the thick black mud is all so unfamiliar.  I think that if I ever wanted to escape my life, run away to write a novel or take photographs which would require peace, ruggedness and unexpected beauty, I think I would choose this area.  Granted, I may go quite batshit crazy in the deep winter, I imagine the wind howls and the rain is relentless, but still, what else does a writer or photographer need?

Alex at Poulbabrone Dolmen

We also popped in to Galway city- the River Corrib that flows from a loch into the ocean is very pretty running through the town.  Even more spectacular is that there is a weir almost in the city where fisherman can cast their lines- I saw a man waist deep in galsohes flicking his wrist over the waters, fishing for trout and salmon I think.  Galway was also a base for the Spanish Armada in that era, and it was nice to be able to chat to Dad about such history, since we enjoy the history of Christianity and its role in various wars.

The Spanish Arches in Galway, remnants of when the Spanish Armada were saltations here.

Dad was due to start another 5 day hike from Dublin on Thursday to we drove back to the east coast the day before.  However, I insisted we pop in to see the city Cork down in the south.  Honestly, the distance anywhere in Ireland barely exceeds a 3 hour drive, and while it didn’t make sense to drive 2 hours south to have lunch and then drive 3 hours north to get to Dublin, it was just something I wanted to do.  Cork city is pretty unimpressive to be honest, easy enough to pass up since Blarney Castle (just outside the city) is ridiculously expensive to get in to so we drove another 20 minutes through to the coastal part of Cork called Cobh.

Cobh was lovely; clean; had lovely views of the Atlantic from the harbour area, and most interesting of all is that it was the very last port that the Titanic ship berthed before setting off on it’s disastrous voyage.  We also saw signs for a memorial to the RMS Lusitania wreck, which sounded somewhat familiar.  Thanks to Google, I was able to tell Dad (who had asked) that the Lusitania was a passenger liner that was carrying passenegers from Europe to America in 1915 and was bombed by a German submarine, with around 1100 people going down when it sank.  Given it was not a war ship, and Americans had been killed as a result of German bombs, it was one of the reasons that eventually turned the Americans against the Germans and joined the Allies in the war, although much later on.

On to Dublin, we eventually arrived at the cottage of Nan Dwyer who has ties to my Dublin Carr relatives. Nan used to run the Eunice Carr Children’s Home, a job she took over from my great grandfathers sister (Eunice Carr). Nan is a wonderful link back to our Irish ancestors, and thoroughly enjoys being a curator of family memories. Through correspondence a while back, she once told me that we are related to George Bernard Shaw!  We stayed for a wonderful cup of tea and cake, introduced my girls to her, and then said our goodbyes and took to the mad Dublin streets in rush hour.

#reasonsnottoliveindublin #ohmygoodness  I almost want to say that Dublin traffic is worse than Paris traffic.  It was a most stressful hour crossing the Liffey and heading north to our other AirBnB spot. It also helped us make a decision as to whether we should attempt to drive into Dublin the day after or take the bus in order to see the city.

Turns out we’ve become quite adept at cities and public transport now!  And you live and learn I guess.  Something to note should you travel in Dublin- the bus system is very efficient, but should you need to buy your fare on the bus, make sure you have the exact amount of coins on hand, because there is no change given when you do this.  Granted, locals can buy Leap Passes, its like our Badgeo’s, like Londons Oyster cards, like The Hague’s VF Pass’, so it basically begs a travel book title (or chapter:  How To Travel Like A Local In Major Cities Across The World.  😉

Of course, what to do in a city like Dublin?  We opted for a Hop On Hop Off bus, and ended up with such an amusing bus driver whose real job is tour guide on 3 hour trips, so he was a laugh a minute as well as very interesting and instead of getting off at various stops we did the entire journey with him, received some lovely tit-bits of info, mostly regarding the Rising of 1916, and then did our own walking tour of Dublin.

First stop was the Dublin City Museum where we took Alex to see the relocated studio of Francis Bacon.  I’m not sure if you remember me speaking of the oral presentation Alex has had to do for her French class?  Francis Bacon was a highly prolific, highly sought after and acclaimed artist of Irish decent.  After he died in 1992, his partner paid to have his London studio relocated to the Dublin City Gallery.  It was a mammoth task, given Francis Bacon was by no means a tidy artist.  Take a look at these photos below- this is what his studio actually looked like, and it was moved piece by piece, and replaced as it stood.

Francis Bacons relocated studio.

Alex in front of an incomplete Bacon piece.

My sister asked if this was actually art, and was horrified when I explained what it really was.  (On day 2 of our stay in Dublin, we walked down to Lower Baggot Street which is where Bacon lived in his youth.  Alex was quite chuffed to take in these sights given all the research (I) she did for the project.)

The girls in front of 63 Lower Baggot Street, where Bacon lived in his youth.

After the gallery, we hightailed it to the Guinness Storehouse.  This is what every tourist does in Dublin so you can imagine the throngs of tourists travelling up this 7 floor factory.  Granted, the owners have put in a very thorough display, and I would have enjoyed it much more if we weren’t being herded along with the touring masses.  For me, the highlight was being able to drink a beer on the top floor, which has a 360 degree view of Dublin city- it’s the sort of thing I quite fancy doing in a city! Pity that I couldn’t actually sit down and savour the moment, but it was pretty awesome anyway!

Images from the Guinness Storehouse.

This is a memorial piece outside the Dublin prison, in honour of the rebels of the 1916 uprising. It was due to the efforts of these 15 men that set the balk in motion for Ireland to be separated from Britain. These men had been executed in the prison for their efforts.

Iconic Molly Mallone selling her cockles and mussels.

Even Bebi joined us on our travels. Here is Beth’s doudou on the Liffey.

Oh my goodness, have I bored you to death?  I’m sorry.  What started out as a vent session against the horrors of busy airport terminals, I have waxed on far too long about the wonders of our holiday.  I guess I just wanted to put words to all the lovely photos I took.  I decided that its almost easier taking photos in grey gloomy scenery than hot bright sun, its just a pity we’re all wearing coats in every single family photo.

All in all, I would say we had a really lovely holiday. It was a great opportunity to see Dad who is currently working his a*** off on a farm in County Wexford. We haven’t questioned WHY he is spending the summer working, but it’s certainly a cheaper holiday than if he was touring. (He has done a 6 day hike and plans another one perhaps when he finishes his summer job so he is fulfilling his normal thing of hiking while on holiday).

As for us, we have just one long semester left of the school year before the long summer holiday. We’re not going away after all, had hoped to do another euro road trip to the south of France and Spain but we are saving leave for October when we do 3 weeks in SA for Dads wedding to Sheila. And Mozi’s nuptials to Robert. Yip, congratulations to all of them, we are looking forward to a festive autumn/spring filled with lots of love and wedding vibes. Of course, LPM can’t wait to celebrate her birthday with everyone back home, and I can’t wait to see my besties for a combined, belated 40th get together! (The Shakespearien words from the beginning of Macbeth spring to mind ladies 😘)

In between now and then, Anton and I are going to Norway for a week so we there is much travel on the go this year.

However, best I start doing my job so we am afford all this delightful travel.

Much love and hugs to you all. Am thinking of you as the seasons change- frost in SA I believe? Shem nè?

Lots of love,

Moi,

Xxx